P0105: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction
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What does the P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction mean?

OBD-II code P0105 stands for “Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction.” It’s a generic powertrain code on all OBD-II vehicles. It means the ECU (PCM) has detected a fault in the MAP/BARO sensor circuit (e.g. stuck low/high, open/short, or an implausible signal).
The MAP sensor monitors the intake manifold’s absolute pressure (engine vacuum). Under load (throttle open, higher RPM) manifold pressure rises; at idle, manifold vacuum is high and pressure low. The ECU uses this MAP data to gauge engine load and adjust air-fuel ratio, ignition timing and EGR operation.
A separate BARO sensor measures ambient atmospheric pressure. In practice, many modern vehicles integrate MAP and BARO in one unit or use the MAP sensor’s key-on reading as the barometric reference. The only difference is location – the MAP sensor is plumbed to the manifold, while a BARO is vented to outside air.
The ECM continuously monitors the MAP sensor signal and compares it against engine operating conditions such as throttle position, engine speed, and calculated load. If the MAP sensor voltage remains outside the expected operating range or does not respond appropriately to changes in engine load, the ECM will identify the signal as implausible and store the P0105 trouble code.
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When the P0105 Triggers?
The Engine Control Module (ECM) continuously monitors the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal to determine engine load and calculate the correct fuel injection and ignition timing. To ensure the MAP sensor is operating correctly, the ECM performs several plausibility checks by comparing the MAP signal against engine operating conditions such as throttle position, engine speed, and barometric pressure.
The MAP sensor typically receives a 5-volt reference signal and ground from the ECM and returns a voltage signal that changes according to intake manifold pressure.
Typical MAP Sensor Voltage Readings
| Engine Condition | Manifold Pressure | Typical MAP Voltage |
|---|---|---|
| Key On, Engine Off (KOEO) at Sea Level | ~101 kPa | ~4.0–4.8 V |
| Idle | ~20–40 kPa | ~0.8–1.5 V |
| Light Cruise | ~40–60 kPa | ~1.5–3.0 V |
| Moderate Acceleration | ~60–80 kPa | ~3.0–4.0 V |
| Wide Open Throttle (WOT) | ~95–100 kPa | ~4.5–5.0 V |
Note: Actual values vary depending on vehicle manufacturer, altitude, engine design, and sensor calibration.
The ECM may store code P0105 when one or more of the following conditions are detected:
Reference Voltage or Ground Fault
The MAP sensor requires a stable 5-volt reference and a reliable ground connection. If the ECM detects a missing reference voltage, poor ground, open circuit, or short circuit within the MAP sensor circuit, it can no longer trust the sensor signal and may trigger code P0105.
MAP Signal Outside the Expected Range
Most MAP sensors operate within an approximate range of 0.5 to 4.5 volts. If the signal remains excessively low or excessively high for a prolonged period, the ECM interprets this as an electrical fault or sensor malfunction.
MAP and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Mismatch
The ECM continuously compares MAP sensor readings with throttle position sensor data.
For example:
- When the throttle opens, manifold vacuum should decrease and MAP voltage should increase.
- When the throttle closes, manifold vacuum should increase and MAP voltage should decrease.
If the throttle position indicates heavy acceleration but the MAP sensor does not respond accordingly, the ECM may determine that the MAP signal is implausible and set code P0105.
MAP and BARO Sensor Comparison Failure
On vehicles equipped with both a MAP sensor and a separate Barometric Pressure (BARO) sensor, the ECM compares the two readings.
With the engine off or during key-on initialization, the MAP sensor should read approximately the same atmospheric pressure as the BARO sensor. If the difference exceeds the acceptable limit, the ECM may identify a fault in the MAP/BARO circuit.
Sensor Signal Stuck or Unresponsive
The ECM expects the MAP sensor signal to change continuously as engine load changes.
A MAP sensor that remains fixed at a constant voltage regardless of engine speed, throttle position, or manifold pressure is considered faulty. This may be caused by:
- A failed MAP sensor
- Wiring faults
- A clogged MAP sensor port
- A disconnected vacuum source
Freeze-Frame Data Validation
When a fault occurs, the ECM records freeze-frame data showing the exact operating conditions at the moment the code was stored.
During diagnosis, technicians often compare:
- MAP sensor voltage
- Throttle position
- Engine RPM
- Engine load
For example, a MAP sensor reading of approximately 1 volt at idle is normal. However, a reading near 3 volts at idle or only 1 volt during wide-open throttle would be considered abnormal and may indicate the cause of the P0105 fault.
By comparing these values, the ECM determines whether the MAP sensor signal is logical and consistent with actual engine operating conditions. If the signal becomes implausible, erratic, or fails to respond to changing engine load, the ECM will illuminate the Check Engine Light and store diagnostic trouble code P0105.
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Car Sensors Explained: What They Do and How to Diagnose Them
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How To Fix P0105?
Diagnosing P0105 follows a systematic approach:
- Clear the code and test drive. Start by using an OBD-II scanner to clear the code and then drive the vehicle to see if P0105 returns. Sometimes codes are temporary. If it returns immediately, proceed. If intermittent, capture freeze-frame data or scan-tool data when it reappears to analyze conditions (e.g. RPM, throttle, MAP voltage at that moment).
- Visual inspection. With the engine OFF, inspect the MAP sensor and surroundings:
- Look for vacuum hoses: On many engines the MAP sensor connects via a small vacuum hose. Check that this hose isn’t cracked, collapsed, or disconnected. A crushed hose or leak here mimics MAP failure.
- Inspect the MAP sensor housing if it’s direct-mounted (common on turbo engines): ensure it’s seated and sealed, not cracked.
- Check for oil or debris in the hose or sensor port; a blocked port can skew readings.
- Examine wiring and connector for damage, corrosion or loose pins.
- Look for vacuum hoses: On many engines the MAP sensor connects via a small vacuum hose. Check that this hose isn’t cracked, collapsed, or disconnected. A crushed hose or leak here mimics MAP failure.
- Electrical checks. With the key ON (engine off), use a multimeter:
- Verify there is a steady 5 V reference on the MAP sensor’s power wire.
- Check for a good ground on the MAP sensor’s ground wire.
- With the sensor unplugged, check the signal wire for 5 V with key on; it should disappear when unplugged.
- If any of these are missing, repair the connector or wiring before replacing the sensor.
- Scan tool live data. Backprobe the MAP signal wire with the engine running (if possible) and compare to throttle/RPM changes:
- At idle (closed throttle), MAP voltage should be low (~1 V).
- Snap throttle open; MAP voltage should climb rapidly toward ~4–5 V. If it jumps or drops improperly, note the behavior.
- Check whether the MAP reading moves when you tap or wiggle the hoses/wiring – intermittent wiring faults can show up as jumps in the live data.
- You can also compare engine-off readings: it should read ambient (~4 V at sea level).
- Smoke or vacuum test. If no electrical fault is found, check for leaks:
- Use a smoke machine or a can of ultrasonic cleaner to spray around intake gaskets and hoses while watching MAP voltage. Any change indicates a leak.
- Use a hand-held vacuum pump on the MAP sensor: with engine off, apply vacuum (e.g. ~18–20 inHg) to the MAP. The sensor’s output should change smoothly (see chart below). OBD-Codes advises the MAP voltage increases as vacuum increases (i.e. pressure falls), while some techs interpret it as decrease; either way it should vary linearly. If the voltage doesn’t change or goes out of range, the sensor is likely faulty.
- Replace or repair. After testing, perform the fixes:
- If you found a vacuum leak (cracked hose, bad gasket), fix it and clear the code.
- If wiring/connector was corroded or shorted, repair or replace the harness as needed.
- If the MAP sensor fails bench tests or shows no change with vacuum, replace it with a known-good part.
- In rare cases (no other faults found), the ECU itself may be at fault. Most techs only consider this after all else is eliminated, and often try re-flashing/updating the PCM first.
Once repairs are made, clear codes and road-test to confirm P0105 does not return.
| Step | Action | Expected Result |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Clear DTC and road test | Confirm code returns |
| 2 | Inspect vacuum hoses | No leaks found |
| 3 | Inspect MAP sensor | No contamination or damage |
| 4 | Check wiring and connector | No opens or shorts |
| 5 | Verify 5V reference and ground | Voltage within specification |
| 6 | Monitor live MAP data | Voltage changes with engine load |
| 7 | Test sensor with vacuum pump | Voltage changes smoothly |
| 8 | Repair fault and retest | Code does not return |
Read our free complete guide on Kindle and learn how to diagnose sensor-related issues with clarity and confidence.
STOP GUESSING. START DIAGNOSING. SAVE HUNDREDS ON REPAIRS.
Tired of expensive repair bills and mechanics who “parts-cannon” your car without finding the real issue? The “Check Engine” light shouldn’t be a mystery. This guide puts professional-level diagnostics in your hands.
Possible Root Causes of P0105
Some common root causes of the P0105 error code include:
1. Vacuum Leak (Intake or Hose Leak)
A vacuum leak (from a cracked hose, loose fitting, or intake manifold gasket leak) lets outside air into the manifold, causing the MAP reading to be lower (higher vacuum) than expected.
For example, a leak in the MAP hose or at the manifold boot means the sensor sees less pressure than the engine actually has. The ECU, comparing this aberrant low pressure to the expected value, will flag a fault.
Fix: Carefully inspect the intake system for vacuum leaks. Check all vacuum hoses, intake ducting, PCV lines, and intake manifold gaskets for cracks, loose connections, or damage. A professional smoke machine can be used to introduce non-toxic smoke into the intake system. Smoke escaping from hoses, gaskets, or fittings will help pinpoint the source of the leak. Once identified, repair or replace the faulty component and clear the trouble code.
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2. Faulty MAP Sensor
The MAP sensor itself may be defective (stuck diaphragm, internal short, or contamination). For example, the internal sensing element can wear out or be damaged by heat/oil. A faulty MAP often reports a fixed voltage (e.g. high or low) regardless of actual pressure.
Fix: Replace the MAP sensor with an OEM-quality unit. Many MAP sensors come with a pigtail harness; be sure to match the OE part number.
Recommended product: Bosch or Delphi MAP sensor
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3. Wiring/Connector Issue
Damaged wiring or connectors can cause intermittent or incorrect signals. Corrosion at the connector, a broken wire in the loom, or a short between the signal and 5V reference will all generate wrong voltage to the ECU.
Fix: Inspect the MAP sensor connector for bent pins, corrosion, or moisture. Wiggle the wiring harness while monitoring MAP voltage – spikes or drops indicate a wiring fault. Repair any chafed wires or replace the connector. Use dielectric grease on the connector to prevent corrosion.
Recommended product: A repair wire harness pigtail for your MAP sensor (if available), or general electrical repair kit (for splicing and insulating wires).
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4. Clogged/Dirty MAP Port
Carbon, oil, or debris in the MAP sensor’s vacuum port or hose can impede the pressure signal. For example, if the small hose fitting to the sensor is partially blocked, the ECU will read incorrect pressure.
Fix: Remove the MAP sensor and blow through its port and hose. Clean with a dedicated sensor or throttle-body cleaner (do not use harsh chemicals that leave residue). Ensure the port under the sensor is free of gasket material. If contamination has entered the sensor, replacement is safer.
Recommended product: Mass Airflow/MAP sensor cleaner (such as CRC or WD-40 LOD) to clean orifices without damaging the sensor.
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5. Faulty BARO Sensor (if separate)
Some engines have a separate barometric (BARO) pressure sensor. If the BARO sensor fails or its vent line is blocked, the ECU gets bad ambient pressure data. This usually only matters on cars where MAP and BARO are distinct.
Fix: If your vehicle has a separate BARO (often on the intake plenum or MAF housing), test it like a MAP sensor (see service manual). A bad BARO can often set P0106/P0107/8 as well, but in some systems it may trigger P0105. Replace the BARO sensor if it’s defective.
Recommended product: Genuine BARO sensor or intake-manifold pressure sensor (often the same part number as MAP on some models).
- Barometric Pressure Sensor Replacement For 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.4L LUJ
- Part Number(s): 55573248, 0261230282
- For early Gen.1 LUJ 1.4L Turbocharged Cruze only, intake manifold with 2 pressure sensors
6. Faulty ECU (Rare)
In very rare cases, the powertrain control module itself is at fault (bad analog input for MAP/BARO). This could happen if the ECU’s internal reference source or ADC channel is damaged.
Fix: Confirm all else is good before blaming the ECU. If wiring and sensors test fine, an ECU reflash or replacement may be needed. This is usually done at a dealership or professional shop.
Note: Always double-check wiring, grounds and sensors first – ECM failure is uncommon.
Common Diagnostic Mistakes
- Replacing MAP sensor prematurely: A very common error is to assume the sensor is bad without thorough testing. Often a vacuum leak or wiring issue is the real culprit. Always verify with electrical tests or a vacuum pump before swapping the MAP sensor.
- Ignoring vacuum/leaks: Failing to inspect intake leaks can waste time and money. A small cracked hose or intake gasket leak can mimic MAP failure. Always perform a smoke test or spray test around the intake while watching live MAP data.
- Overlooking signal comparison: Not using freeze-frame or live data to compare MAP vs TPS/RPM is a missed opportunity. As OBD-Codes notes, you should compare the MAP reading to throttle position at the time of failure. For example, if the TPS was 2.5 V (partial throttle), but MAP was still low (~1 V), that inconsistency points to a problem.
- Checking the wrong conditions: Remember that a MAP sensor sees atmospheric pressure at key-on. Don’t confuse the idle reading with a “leak” if the engine is off. Likewise, many turbo engines have no vacuum hose to the MAP (they mount directly). Assuming a missing hose means a problem is a common mistake.
- Skipping basic checks: Not verifying the 5 V reference and good ground can lead to pointless part swaps. If the sensor circuit has no power or ground, no sensor will work. Always confirm the reference voltage before condemning the MAP.
- Ignoring related codes: Don’t forget to look for other codes. For instance, lean codes (P0171/174) or TPS codes might clue you into a vacuum or throttle issue, respectively. Addressing those can sometimes clear P0105 if they were related.
Related Codes
- P0106: “MAP/BARO Circuit Range/Performance” – Triggered when the MAP signal is outside expected range (0–5 V) during normal operation. Often follows or accompanies P0105.
- P0107: “MAP/BARO Circuit Low” – The MAP voltage is too low (below expected) at engine off or idle. Indicates an open circuit or stuck-low reading.
- P0108: “MAP/BARO Circuit High” – The MAP voltage is too high (above expected) at engine off or wide throttle. Indicates a short to 5 V or stuck-high reading.
- P0171 / P0174: “System Too Lean (Bank 1/2)” – Lean fuel trim codes. A vacuum leak (a common P0105 cause) or failing MAP can cause these lean codes.
- P0300 (and P0301–P0308): “Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire” – Erratic MAP signals or vacuum leaks can lead to misfires under load, setting P0300 series faults.
- P0110: “Intake Air Temperature Sensor” – While not directly a MAP code, it’s related in that it measures intake conditions. It’s worth checking IAT if the intake is contaminated.
| Code | Definition | What It Means |
|---|---|---|
| P0105 | MAP/BARO Circuit Malfunction | General electrical fault in the MAP/BARO circuit. ECM cannot trust the sensor signal. |
| P0106 | MAP/BARO Circuit Range/Performance Problem | Sensor signal exists but doesn’t match expected engine operating conditions. |
| P0107 | MAP/BARO Circuit Low Input | MAP voltage stuck too low (typically below ~0.5V). Often caused by a short to ground, faulty sensor, or wiring issue. |
| P0108 | MAP/BARO Circuit High Input | MAP voltage stuck too high (typically above ~4.5V). Often caused by a short to 5V, failed sensor, or disconnected vacuum source. |
| P0109 | MAP/BARO Circuit Intermittent | Signal drops in and out unexpectedly due to loose connections, damaged wiring, or intermittent sensor failure. |
What is the P0105 code?
P0105 means the PCM has detected a fault in the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor or barometric (BARO) sensor circuit. It indicates the MAP sensor voltage is out of range or inconsistent, which can affect fuel and ignition control.
What causes a P0105 code?
Common causes include vacuum leaks in the intake, a faulty MAP sensor, damaged wiring or connector, a blocked MAP hose, a bad BARO sensor (if equipped), or very rarely a faulty ECU. The MAP sensor output staying below ~0.5V or above ~4.5V during throttle changes will set P0105.
What are the symptoms of P0105?
Symptoms often include the Check Engine Light, rough idle, loss of power, engine misfires or hesitations, and sometimes engine backfire. You may also notice poor fuel economy. In extreme cases, the engine may stall or refuse to idle smoothly.
How do I diagnose and fix P0105?
First, clear the code and see if it returns. Then inspect vacuum hoses and intake for leaks, check the MAP sensor wiring (power, ground, signal), and compare live MAP voltage to throttle position/RPM using a scan tool. If no wiring issues, test the MAP sensor with a hand-held vacuum pump to see if its output changes correctly. Fix by repairing leaks, wiring faults, or replacing the MAP sensor if it fails testing. A proper diagnosis follows the steps outlined above before swapping parts.
Can I drive with P0105?
You can usually drive short distances, but expect reduced engine performance and efficiency. Because the ECU is running on a fallback strategy, the vehicle may run richer or timing may be off, which can stress the engine and catalytic converter. It’s best to fix P0105 promptly to avoid further issues.
What other codes are related to P0105?
Related codes include P0106–P0108 (MAP sensor range or low/high faults), P0171/P0174 (system too lean, often due to vacuum leaks), and sometimes misfire codes (P0300 series) if misfires occur. Also, codes for the throttle position sensor (e.g. P0121–P0125) can appear if the PCM suspects a TPS–MAP correlation issue.







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